So much to see

There is nothing like having visitors to make you realize how many cool things there are to see and do.  We have kept Mary and Stan (Natalie's parents) busy.  Here are a few things we have done.

1.  Market at Etla.  Every day there is a market in a different town within an hour of Oaxaca.  On Wednesday, our friend and landlord, José Manuel, took us to the market in Etla.  Fortunately, he knew a back route out of town, because traffic in most of the city was paralyzed.  Student teachers had hijacked 41 buses and used them to block major intersections throughout the city.  They were protesting the lack of guaranteed jobs for new teachers and an initiative to require existing teachers to pass subject-specific exams to keep their jobs.  Actual teacher strikes happen so often that locals joked that the protest and blockade were simply part of the training to become a teacher.  I do not know enough about the strikes to take sides, but there is no question that the students are the big losers.  One of our friends estimated that kids in public schools miss a third of the school year due to teacher strikes.  That may be an exaggeration, but it not far from the truth.

But I digress.  José Manuel got us to the market in Etla without a hitch, where we enjoyed walking around and taking in the scenery.  Our last market photos focused on the colorful people and produce.  Here are some pictures of other colorful things one sees at the market.

Baskets

Shoes

Jello

Plastic

Bras

Shirts (we paid extra for the models)

We also visited the cathedral and convent at Etla.  

Approaching the cathedral

Statue inside the cathedral

Another statue.  It appears that Stan, a self-proclaimed atheist, models his appearance on religious icons.

2.  Monte Alban.  Natalie and her parents visited the Zapoteca ruins of Monte Alban.  Natalie’s friend and Spanish/English conversation partner, Fátima, went with them.  They all thought it was spectacular.  Mary and Stan did not miss the opportunity for a portrait.

Holiday card preview?

Mary and Fátima viewing carvings from the famous Wall of the Danzantes (dancers)

3.  Alebrijes.  One evening, Stan and the kids ordered tacos in the hotel room from Don Juanito’s restaurant, while Mary, Natalie and I wandered around town and then ate at Don Juanito’s in the Centro.  Before dinner, we saw some particularly beautiful examples of the colorful wooden sculptures Oaxaca is known for, called Alebrijes.  We noted the name of the artist (Narciso Gonzales Ramirez) and the town where he lives (Arrazola de Xoxó).  The next day, we went to Arrazola to find him.

Looking for Narciso.

Is this his house?

Nope, not this one.

Success!

It was worth the search.  Narciso’s carving distinguishes him from other Alebrije makers, and his wife, Ruby, is an accomplished painter.  Although only Narciso signs the pieces, it is a team effort.  They had only one completed piece when we visited, a turkey, but that did not stop Stan.  Knowing something special when he sees it, Stan bought the turkey as well as a half-finished armadillo, which Narciso delivered to their hotel a couple of days later. 

Everybody is happy.

We left only after ascertaining that Narciso could create an Alebrije of our dog, Pierre, whom Mary and Stan are babysitting while we are in Mexico.  We may take him up on it, if that is what it takes to ransom Pierre back when we get home.    

Coming soon to an Alebrije shop near you.

4.  Meat market.  On our way back from Arrazola, we stopped at the meat market near the Zocalo for lunch.  Best lunch in Oaxaca.

Grilled meat, vegetables, and trombone (in the back).  A perfect combination.

5.  Museum of Santo Domingo.  The church at Santo Domingo is the largest in Oaxaca, and probably one of the biggest in Mexico.  Begun in 1570, it took 200 years to build the church and the attached monastery.  The monastery now houses a museum with artifacts spanning the approximately 10,000 years that people have lived in the Oaxaca Valley.  The building, the collection, and the views of the mountains, botanical garden, and a busy plaza below are spectacular.  Nevertheless, it is sobering to be inside such a powerful symbol of the Conquest and all it entailed.  It gave us much to talk and to think about.

Plaza of Santo Domingo

Squeezing our way into the museum

Inside looking out.  How many monks did the same?

View of the botanical gardens from the monastery

Thank goodness for audio tours

This is not a complete list of everything we did this week, but it shows some of the highlights.  One last photo, taken on the bus from the town of Tule to Oaxaca.  We had breakfast there this morning, after waking up early to watch Max’s soccer game.  (Max's team won 4-0, and Max scored his first official Mexican goal! After receiving a perfect pass from the center, Max two-touched it to the outside corner of the box and then ripped one into the back of the net.) 

Sharing a moment on the bus.

Mary and Stan leave Monday.  They plan to fly.  But do not be surprised if they exchange the plane tickets for a bus trip instead.  --Harrison